Corsets have been an essential part of fashion for centuries, known for their ability to shape and support the body while offering a timeless aesthetic. Among the different types of corsets, the underbust corset is a popular choice due to its versatility and comfort. It provides waist reduction and back support without covering the bust, making it ideal for various fashion styles and purposes, from everyday wear to costume design.

In this guide, we will walk you through every step of how to make an underbust corset pattern, from understanding the materials and tools required to drafting the pattern and assembling the final product. By following these detailed instructions, you can create a custom underbust corset pattern tailored perfectly to your body and style.

Understanding Underbust Corsets

Before diving into the pattern-making process, it’s essential to understand what an underbust corset is and how it differs from other types. An underbust corset starts just below the bust and extends down to the hips, providing support and shaping the waist without constricting the chest. This type of corset allows for greater freedom of movement and comfort while still achieving the desired silhouette.

Types of Underbust Corsets:

  1. Victorian Underbust Corset: Known for its dramatic waist reduction and hourglass shape.
  2. Edwardian Underbust Corset: Provides a smooth line and slightly raised waist, popular in historical reenactments.
  3. Modern Underbust Corset: Often more flexible and designed for comfort and daily wear.

Understanding these variations will help you decide which style you want to create and how to customize your pattern accordingly.

Materials and Tools Needed

To make a high-quality underbust corset, you will need specific materials and tools. Here’s a comprehensive list:

Fabric Choices:

  • Coutil: A sturdy cotton fabric designed specifically for corsetry.
  • Twill: A durable, tightly woven fabric.
  • Brocade: A decorative fabric with raised patterns, perfect for a fancier look.

Structural Materials:

  • Boning: Steel boning (both flat and spiral) is preferred for durability and flexibility. Plastic boning is an option for beginners but is less durable.
  • Busk: A steel busk provides structure to the front of the leather underbust corset, allowing for easy fastening.
  • Waist Tape: Reinforces the waist area to prevent stretching.

Sewing Tools:

  • Needles and Thread: Heavy-duty needles and strong polyester or nylon thread.
  • Sewing Machine: A machine capable of handling thick fabrics.
  • Rotary Cutter and Scissors: For precise cutting.

Pattern-Making Tools:

  • Measuring Tape: To take accurate body measurements.
  • Ruler and French Curve: Essential for drafting smooth curves and lines.
  • Pattern Paper and Pencil: For drafting your pattern pieces.
  • Pins: To secure the fabric during cutting and sewing.

Additional Supplies:

  • Eyelets or Grommets: For the back lacing.
  • Laces or Cords: To lace up the corset.
  • Bias Tape: For binding the edges of the corset.

Taking Measurements

Taking accurate measurements is crucial to creating a well-fitting underbust corset pattern. Here’s how to take the essential measurements:

  1. Underbust: Measure around your ribcage, just under your bust.
  2. Waist: Measure around the smallest part of your waist.
  3. Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips.
  4. Back Length: Measure from the base of your neck to the waist.
  5. Front Length: Measure from the underbust to the waist.

Ensure you measure while standing upright, and keep the tape measure snug but not tight against your body.

Drafting the Corset Pattern

Drafting your own underbust corset pattern allows for a custom fit tailored to your body’s unique shape. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Creating the Basic Pattern Framework

Start by drawing a vertical line on your pattern paper that represents the center front of the corset. Mark points along this line corresponding to your underbust, waist, and hip measurements.

Step 2: Drawing the Panels

Divide the pattern into several panels (typically six or eight per side) by drawing vertical lines from the underbust to the hip. These panels will later be sewn together to form the corset. Use your waist, underbust, and hip measurements to shape the panels, ensuring the waist is the narrowest part.

Step 3: Adding Seam Allowances

Add a 1/2-inch seam allowance around each panel. This extra fabric allows for sewing the panels together without altering the corset's intended size.

Step 4: Drafting the Busk and Lacing Panels

The busk and lacing panels are crucial for the corset’s closure and fit. Add an additional 1-2 inches to the center front for the busk and 2-3 inches at the back for the lacing gap.

Step 5: Adjusting for Fit

Make any necessary adjustments to your pattern to account for body shape variations, such as a more pronounced curve for a smaller waist or broader hips. This customization ensures a perfect fit.

Making a Mock-Up (Toile)

Creating a mock-up, or toile, is an essential step to test the fit of your underbust corset pattern. Use inexpensive fabric like calico or muslin for this purpose.

  1. Cut the Mock-Up Fabric: Cut out the pattern pieces from your mock-up fabric.
  2. Sew the Panels Together: Using a straight stitch, sew the panels together, leaving the busk and lacing panels unsewn.
  3. Test the Fit: Try on the mock-up and adjust the seams as needed. Mark any areas that need taking in or letting out.
  4. Make Adjustments: Adjust the pattern based on your fitting notes to ensure a perfect fit.

Cutting and Preparing the Fabric

Once your pattern is perfected, it's time to cut the final fabric:

  1. Prepare the Fabric: Wash and iron your fabric to prevent shrinkage.
  2. Lay Out the Pattern Pieces: Place your pattern pieces on the fabric, ensuring the grainline runs parallel to the selvage.
  3. Cut the Fabric: Use a rotary cutter or fabric scissors for precise cuts. Cut two of each pattern piece for a double-layered corset.

Assembling the Corset

With your fabric pieces cut and ready, follow these steps to assemble your corset:

Step 1: Sew the Panels Together

Pin the fabric panels together in the correct order and sew them using a straight stitch. Press the seams open with an iron for a professional finish.

Step 2: Inserting the Boning

Boning channels are sewn along each seam, with bones inserted to provide structure. Use steel boning for the best support. Cut the boning to size and file the edges to prevent sharpness.

Step 3: Adding the Busk

The busk is a front closure consisting of loops and studs. Sew it into the center front panels carefully to ensure alignment.

Step 4: Installing Grommets or Eyelets

Using an eyelet tool, install grommets or eyelets evenly along the back panels for lacing. Ensure they are secure to withstand tension.

Step 5: Finishing the Edges

Bind the edges of your corset with bias tape to finish it neatly. This step also reinforces the fabric, preventing fraying.

Final Fitting and Adjustments

Try on the completed corset for a final fitting. Lace it up snugly and check for any discomfort or fit issues. Make minor adjustments to ensure the corset fits comfortably and provides the desired silhouette.

Embellishments and Customization

Once you have a perfectly fitting corset, consider adding embellishments to personalize it:

  • Lace and Ribbons: Add lace or ribbon trims for a romantic look.
  • Embroidery and Beading: Use embroidery or beading to add intricate designs.
  • Appliqué: Attach fabric appliqués for a unique touch.

Care and Maintenance of Your Corset

To ensure the longevity of your corset, follow these care tips:

  • Cleaning: Spot clean with mild detergent or dry clean for delicate fabrics.
  • Storage: Store your corset flat or rolled to prevent creasing and deformation.
  • Maintenance: Regularly check for loose threads, broken boning, or damaged grommets.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

  • Boning Poking Through Fabric: Ensure boning tips are properly filed and capped.
  • Fit Issues: If the corset is too tight or loose, adjust the lacing or consider altering the pattern.
  • Wrinkling Fabric: This may indicate incorrect sizing or improper boning placement. Adjust accordingly.

Conclusion

Making an underbust corset pattern is a rewarding process that allows for a perfect fit and personalized design. By following the steps outlined in this guide with Jennifer Cura's Blog, you’ll learn how to make an underbust corset pattern that not only fits beautifully but also reflects your style and fashion.